The Right Words
Analog
Describes a watch that indicates the time with hands (as opposed to digital)
Automatic
Describes a timepiece with self-winding movement. The
system consists of an eccentric weight called a winding
rotor (with the centre of gravity a far as possible from
the axis of rotation), which is compelled by wrist
movements to make short oscillations while being pulled
downward by the force of gravity.
These oscillations, through a series of mechanisms, transmit
the movement to a ratchet, progressively winding
the mainspring.
Caliber
Originally showed only the movement measurement,
but over time has come to define the type and form of
the movement.
Carre’
Square. Term used in particular to designate the square
shape of the case.
Case
Component that serves as housing and protection for the
movement, almost always made up of three parts: the
carrure, dial, and back plate. Glass is placed over the
case, and then the crown and any buttons are added.
Crown
Element attached to the carrure that allows the movement
to wind, and permits the regulation of the hands
and often the date or the GMT hand.
Cotes de Geneve
Decoration, frequently used to embellish superior quality
movements, of undulating lines created by repeatedly
passing a milling cutter to leave a delicate striation.
Chronograph
Inappropriately used term (in place of “chronoscope,”
as only the first prototypes allowed for timekeeping) to
designate a type of watch that measures elapsed time,
controlling the start and finish of timing with buttons
positioned on the side of the case.
Back Plate
Component of the case attached to the rear that, once
removed, permits access to the movement, facilitating
inspection and adjustments. The back plate, usually metal,
is secured to the carrure with a pressure fastening, a
screw fastening, and a tightening by more screws. The glass
back plate allows one to see the movement inside.
Water Resistent
Refers to a watch whose case is constructed to resist only
splashes of water (when the guarantee covers up to 3
atmospheres of pressure, equivalent to a depth of 30
meters) or which permits light swimming (guaranteed
up to 5 atmospheres of pressure, equivalent to a depth
of 50 meters).
Manual
Describes a timepiece in which the mechanical movement
must be hand-wound.
In general, the spring is projected to keep gears functioning
between 35 and 45 hours, in reality it must be
wound daily.
Movement
Together, the principle motor components of a watch.
Movements are divided into two families, quartz and
mechanical.
Mechanical movements are always composed of a plate
(structural element that supports all the components)
as well as gear levers, springs and bridges, the balance
wheel, the escapement, the motor, the winding system
and the stem.
PVD
(Physical vapour deposition) Method involving the
deposit of a thin film onto a metal by a physical transfer
of material obtained by electron bombardment.
Jewel
Hard stone used in a movement as a bearing to decrease
friction. In general, the stainless steel pivots of a
movement mechanism rotate in synthetic jewel bearings
lubricated by a small drop of oil.